There is a sculptural elegance to surfing that belies its brutal edge.
Although that fluid grace depends on being able to grip and
balance on a seemingly wafer-thin board despite all the pounding
waves. The forces of nature can be rough, relentless - and
humbling. Yet for the dedicated or professional surfer, a breaking
wave can be a fully immersive, quasi-religious experience. It
becomes their path to personal enlightenment. Or at least a
groovy ride.
In my photographs for Unforgiving Surf, I want to show that
extended moment when a surfer fuses with a wave and takes on a
more iconic stature. There is certainly beauty in the arc and flow
and spray of the water and the intimate way a surfer holds to all
that.